day 8 - Phitsanulok to Old Sukhothai

Friday, 1 November 2013

We set off from our hotel in Phitsanulok this morning at 6.30am after a breakfast of banana sandwiches and some little jam filled buns. It felt cooler outside at about 25 degrees and it was great to be back on the bikes and get our legs moving again. We had booked accommodation for the night in Old Sukhothai near the Historical Park and hoped to be there around midday. 

We passed through the town of Bang Rakam at the 12km mark and then gradually the traffic started to lighten and the views on either side of the road opened up. It was a gorgeous morning for riding and we had completed the first 20km by 7.30am. 

(One of many rickety little roadside huts that we thought might be a bus shelter)

(A farmer hard at work)

(These locals had a good long look at us)

The fields were so green and we passed rice, wheat and banana crops. In the distance we could see the mountains again which seem to be getting closer. As with our first day of cycling, we passed a lot of happy smiling faces and received lots of waves and 'hellos'. We rode through a lot of colourful little villages along the way. We stopped at one to buy more water and the kind lady didn't even want us to pay although we insisted. We were unsure if it was wrong not to accept the gift but it didn't seem right when it is so little money by Western standards and they seem to have so little themselves.

(A very friendly family who gave us lots of waves and big smiles)

We saw a lot of interesting things on the journey. Monks in the back of utes; people travelling with all manner of things on bikes and carts; strange machinery.

(Monks travelling by ute)

(A fellow cyclist)

(This man appeared to be carrying little rolls of bamboo - how did he get it all on there in the first place???)

At 11.30am, after 85km, we arrived at the Thai Thai guesthouse. We were tired, dusty and very hungry. Thankfully we were able to check-in early and have a good shower before heading out for a delicious lunch at the Sivanna restaurant nearby.  

(Very happy to see this after getting off the bikes)

We spent the heat of the afternoon inside, planning our route for the next couple of days. At 4.30pm we headed out to the historical park which was a 5 minute ride away. Like Ayutthaya, Old Sukhothai is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sukhothai was the capital of Thailand, back in the 13th and 14th centuries when the country was known as Siam. The park contains the ruins of the old capital. It's a beautiful spot and looked lovely with the sun setting in the distance. 

(Wat Mahathat)

(One of a pair of standing Buddhas)

(Wat Sa Si)

(In front of Wat Sa Si)

(Sun setting over the lake at the park)

The little main street in Old Sukhothai was buzzing with activity when we arrived. We went to a small family run cafe for dinner. At about 6pm, the national anthem started to play over loud speaker and everyone stopped and stood in the street. Even the cars stopped on the road. I believe this happens twice a day but it was the first time we had experienced it. The food was very tasty and cost a mere 130 BHT (about $4). 

(The main street in Old Sukhothai)

(The view from our dinner table)

(A great chimney used to funnel away the smoke from the barbeque)

Tomorrow we head to Si Satchanalai which is about 75km from here. So far we've found the first and the last 10km seem to be the hardest and all the others in between just fall away once you find a good rhythm. Not sure what to expect in Si Satchanalai but so long as there's a clean bed and some good food, that'll do us fine.