day 119 - Sisophon to Battambang

Thursday, 20 February 2014

After temperatures in the mid 40s yesterday, we woke today to a cool, breezy 18 degrees. We set off from Sisophon after a hearty breakfast. The road surface was great on the whole and we had covered the 68km to Battambang by mid morning. We encountered a few trailers full of people (yes trailers) on the journey who gave us smiles and waves as they put-put-putted past us.

(Arriving into Battambang)

Battambang is Cambodia's second largest city and still contains many old buildings built during the French occupation. Tim and Tina have recommended a heritage walking tour that we plan to do one day. Once we had found a hotel to check into, we headed out to explore and find a nice cafe. We were spoilt for choice. 

This evening, we went to see a performance by Phare Ponleu Selpak. The whole experience was an absolute highlight of the trip. Phare is a Cambodian organisation that provides free schooling and training for disadvantaged youths in the areas of education, social programs and the arts. It was originally founded as an art school, providing an outlet for youths through creative expression however the teachers realised that the medium of art did not provide enough of an outlet for some students who were particularly volatile or frustrated. As a result, the performing arts school was formed.

As the school was a little way out of town, we asked the hotel to arrange a tuk tuk to take us there. We waited a little and watched while the doormen had a discussion with a few tuk tuk drivers. We were then asked if we minded being driven there by motorbike and taken back by tuk tuk. As we were concerned about making it to the show on time, we agreed and a Nicky sandwich ensued as the two of us and the driver piled on for the 5 minute journey. As we drove, the driver whose name was Soon, told us about some friends of his living in Melbourne and gave us some recommendations on things to do in and around Battambang. 

Arriving at the school, Soon directed us to the ticket booth and told us he would meet us after the show. Tickets in hand, we wandered into one building which was displaying some of the artworks created by the students. We bought a couple of small pieces, 40% of the sale of which goes back to the artist while the other 60% goes to the school. We then wandered over to the gym to watch some of the students in training before finding our seats in the big top. 

(Students in training at Phare)

The show was like a simple, pared back version of Cirque de Soleil. It was the story of a boy who loses his bicycle and the characters he meets along the way as he tries to find it. The performers ranged from early teens to early twenties and the show was extremely professional and polished. They all appeared incredibly comfortable and natural in front of the audience of 250+ people while effortlessly performing mind-boggling stunts, acrobatics and feats of strength. They seemed full of joy and while there was little dialogue, their expressions and body language told the full story. It was hilarious and wonderful and we’re so glad we got to experience it. 

After the show, Soon met us at the gate and drove us back to our hotel. We had decided to take him up on his offer of a half day tour with him the following day and agreed to meet him at 1.30pm tomorrow. We then headed for a drink at the Gecko Cafe where we had had a yummy dinner earlier that evening. The owners describe the cafe as a social enterprise, ensuring their staff receive the highest industry pay and reasonable working hours so they can enjoy a good work/life balance - not something that many Cambodians are fortunate enough to have. The girls that work there are extremely friendly and welcomed us back in when we arrived after the show. The whole evening has just confirmed to us how warm and kind the Khmer people are.

Tomorrow, we will have an easy morning before going on our afternoon tour of some of the surrounding countryside.