Today we reached Cambodia, the fourth destination on our trip. We set out from Ho Chi Minh City early and rode in heavy traffic for the first 40km. Even after the 60 days we've spent here, the driving feels as crazy and chaotic as ever and there were a couple of times where we had to brake sharply to avoid a collision. The road was flat and despite the traffic, we had covered the 70km to the border before noon.
(Cycling through Cu Chi, where we had been a few days earlier to visit the tunnels)
(Approaching the Vietnam border)
Once we had arrived at the Vietnam border, Nicky went to find the passport control area. Inside, people were swarming around one booth where a single man was working his way steadily through the growing pile of passports needing his stamp of approval. It took Nicky a few minutes and about ten people pushing passed before she realised there was no queue and no system, just every person for his or herself. While all this was going on, Paul stood outside with the bikes watching one guard who seemed to be stopping people at random and demanding a fee for something. He would then pocket the money once the person had paid and moved on.
After we had cleared the Vietnam border, we walked the bikes through the grey area that is the bit of land between one border office and another. Nicky's inner control freak jumped for joy when she entered the Cambodian immigration office and saw people standing in an orderly queue! The border guard was polite and efficient and 10 minutes later, we were officially tourists in Cambodia.
The border town on the Cambodian side is called Bavet. As you leave the border and enter the town, large casinos loom up on either side of the road. Gambling is illegal in Vietnam but thousands of Vietnamese cross the border every day to gamble in these and other casinos located at other towns along the Vietnam/Cambodia border. The Cambodian PM is reported to have said that the decision to allow these casinos to be built along the border was part of a strategy to protect Cambodian territory from the Vietnamese saying that "One can remove border markers, but one can't remove five-story hotels."
(One of a handful of large casinos in Bavet)
(A road marker showing Khmer and English)
(The Kim-Ly guesthouse where we're staying for the night, as recommended by Tim and Tina)
Over dinner, we talked about some of the highlights of our time in Vietnam. We both loved our time in Hanoi, particularly the Old Quarter and all it's interesting little streets. Hoi An was also a favourite stop, with the beautiful, colourful lanterns lighting up the old town at night. The food was also exceptional, and we both agreed that generally the food we had outside of the cities was the best of the lot. And finally, the people. Although we initially found them to be very forward and loud compared with the quiet, gentle Laotians, we came to love the Vietnamese for their intensity and humour.
(Some of the lovely, kind people we met in Vietnam)
After dinner, we noticed a game of Da Cau happening near the market. We had seen people playing this in Ho Chi Minh City and decided to watch a bit of the game tonight. The men playing were working up quite a sweat but it all seemed to be pretty good natured and fun. The rules are similar to volleyball except you're not allowed to touch the shuttle with your hands. See the video below to get more of an idea.
(Men playing Da Cau)
Tomorrow we're heading to Neak Loeang which is about 100km from Bavet. That should give us plenty of time to practice a few Cambodian phrases!
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