We've spent the past two days in Hué, enjoying the warmer weather and the sights. It's always nice to be back in a city after having been on the road for a few days and we were particularly looking forward to trying some of the local specialty foods that Hué is renowned for.
(A view of an area on the south bank of the Perfume River)
Hué is located on the central coast, close to the old border between the North and South. From 1802, until Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in 1945, Hué was the imperial capital of Vietnam. As a result of the city's location, much of it was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War (known here as the American War) and many of the historical buildings were destroyed. The buildings that survived then suffered neglect as they were seen as evidence of a past that the people had fought hard to free themselves from. Today, the Government has recognised the importance of preserving these links to the past and there are restoration projects happening all around the city to restore its royal splendour.
(One of the gateways leading into the Old Citadel)
Tuesday was our first full day in Hué and also Paul's birthday! We set out in the morning on foot to explore the Old Citadel. Within the Old Citadel lies the imperial enclosure, where the emperor, his family and the court used to live. The buildings that are still standing give a sense for how impressive the area must have been in it's heyday. The gateways and mosaics alone were incredible and it is the first architecture we've seen that is comparable to the elaborate, highly decorative buildings of Thailand.
(The West Gate of the imperial enclosure)
(Birthday boy!)
(At the main entrance into the imperial enclosure)
(Inside the imperial enclosure)
(Window detail on one of the buildings in the Old Citadel)
(A replica of a ceremonial garment worn by one of the emperors)
(A reception room inside one of the remaining buildings)
(An artist's interpretation of part of the enclosure)
(Charming little mosaics were made of broken bowls or plates)
(A beautiful gateway within the enclosure)
(Roof detail from the Reading Room)
(The Reading Room under renovation)
(Roof detail from the Reading Room)
(Inside the royal theatre within the enclosure)
We lazed away the afternoon over a long lunch, a stroll along the Perfume River and sitting in the shade sipping icy cold drinks. One of our favourite finds was a little shop down an alleyway serving ché, which are a local specialty. They are sweet drinks made of various ingredients such as coconut milk, kidney beans, lotus seeds, fresh fruit, all served with crushed ice. They were so good, we had to go back on Wednesday for another round.
(Ché made with coconut milk, kidney beans, white beans and other unknowns)
(Cyclo drivers rest in the shade of a tree while a woman prepares her food stall for the after work rush)
Today, we spent the morning planning our route over the next couple of weeks here in Vietnam. With a route in mind, and some more accommodation booked, we then headed out on the bikes to explore the north bank and the Dieu De Pagoda which used to be a base for local opposition to the Vietnamese War. The streets around the pagoda were particularly charming and it was a lovely area to wander.
(Incense sticks lying on the pavement outside the pagoda)
(The Dieu De Pagoda)
(The Dieu De Pagoda)
(Women washing clothes in the canal)
(Colourful spirit houses sitting in an old tree, where offerings are made to ancestors)
We also had a wander around the colourful Dong Ba Market which was as lively as any of the big markets we've been to so far on this trip. People are now preparing for the Lunar New Year which falls at the end of this month. Preparation involves cooking a lot of specific dishes, cleaning their homes, buying new clothes and even trying to pay off debts so as to start the slate clean in the new year.
We've had a good couple of days here in Hué but we're looking forward to getting back on the road again tomorrow. Our plan is to cycle to Hoi An which will include tackling the Hai Van Pass, which is meant to be a tough climb. Fingers crossed for a tail wind!
No comments:
Post a Comment