Heading for the hills - Days 5, 6 & 7

Tuesday, 22 December 2015 

After four brilliant days in Tokyo, we set off south on the train to the resort area of Hakone. Hakone is a popular destination for Japanese tourists who seek out the views of Mount Fuji and the hot thermal springs that are dotted all over the area. Our time in Hakone gave us our first taste of a stay in a ‘ryokan’, a traditional Japanese inn. The floor in our room was covered in tatami (straw-like) matts, and the mattresses were placed directly on the floor. While we had an indoor toilet and sink, our shower facilities were out on the balcony, alongside a ‘rotenburo’ which is a heated outdoor bath. This was a really different and fun experience, although a little more challenging on a frosty mountain morning!

(We travelled on the 'Romance Car' to Hakone)

(A view of Hakone)

(Our accommodation at a ryokan in Hakone)

(Outdoor shower)

(Outdoor thermal bath)

(Sculptures at the Open Air Museum in Hakone)

(A quick stop at the thermal foot bath at the Open Air Museum)

(One of the pirate ships that ferry passengers across Lake Ashi)

(Views from the pirate ship)

(Wandering along the 14th century highway)

(An old tea house specialised in serving a rice drink)

(In our 'yukatas' following a relaxing outdoor bath)

Following two days in Hakone, we made our way north to the lower parts of the Japanese Alps where we explored the remote towns of Magome and Tsumago, both of which have become famous for their interest in preserving the more traditional Japanese way of living. In these towns, cars are banned from the main streets, and faint lanterns light up at dusk to guide the few people that shuffle along the streets. We experienced another ryokan in Tsumago which was even more traditional than our previous stay. In addition to our room which had a living area and bedroom separated by sliding doors made of wood and paper, we were also designated our own diningroom for meals. 

(The bullet train silently glides in to the station)

(The coast whizzes past while on the bullet train)

(Travelling on the bullet train felt more like being on an airplane rather than a train.)

(In Nakatsugawa, a local man pulled over in his car and gave us his umbrella when it started to rain)

(Magome)

Tsumago had a lovely museum set in a house which dated back to the mid 1800s and was previously owned by a town official. We were given a guided tour which gave further insight to all of the customs and traditions that dictated how people of different genders, ages and rank were expected to behave. 

(Tsumago)

(Tsumago Museum)

(Sitting at the fireplace in the museum which was once home to a town official.)

(A table made by a local carpenter for the visit of Emperor Meiji in the early 20th century. The carpenter who 

had only ever built low Japanese style tables, was terribly nervous about building a high table for the Emperor, having never seen one in this style before.)

(Tsumago Museum gardens)

From Tsumago, we made our way north to the town of Kanazawa, also known as 'Little Kyoto' where we experienced Geisha districts, our first Japanese castle and a ninja temple. More to follow...