Bye Bye, Hello

Wednesday, 26 March 2014

The title of this blog is a nod to some of the kids we cycled past on the final weeks of our journey through Cambodia. They had learned the words "hello" and "bye bye" but seemed to be confused about the order in which to use them. We would often hear "bye bye! Hello" as we rode past homes and fields. And it seems to be appropriate now that we have said bye bye to Bangkok, Thailand and South East Asia and hello again to Europe.

After having had the past few weeks off the bikes to reflect, here's a little list of some of the highlights and more memorable moments along the way.

Favourite places:

N: Battambang, Cambodia; Hanoi, Vietnam; Laem Sing, Thailand; Luang Prabang, Laos.
P: Hanoi,Vietnam; Hue, Vietnam; Luang Prabang, Laos; Battambang, Cambodia; Laem Sing, Thailand.

(Hue, Vietnam)

(Luang Prabang, Laos)

Favourite moments:

N: Writing on a roof tile at a temple in Chiang Mai and then being offered to sit and eat lunch with some locals in the grounds of the temple.
Being handed a bottle of water by a stranger through a car window as we cycled into Bangkok at the end of the trip.
Descending the hills in Laos.
P: Seeing the Phare Ponleu Selpak performance in Battambang and sampling each new type of food.

(Descending in Laos)

(Roof tile for Chiang Mai temple)

(Phare Ponleu Selpak performers)

Biggest challenge:

N: Setting out on the bikes on the days when we were unsure if we would find accommodation at the other end. But we always did find somewhere.
P: Navigating through big cities and concern about the bikes holding up.

(It wasn't always perfect but we were never without accommodation)

(Puncture after puncture after puncture)

Biggest surprise:

N&P: The kindness of the people we encountered and the friends we made along the way.

(We met Ngoc who acted as a translator for us in Vu Ban)

(And met people like Mai who simply wanted to chat)

(People who proved the impossible can be done)

(And others who wouldn't let us go without a photo)

(And we were lucky enough to meet Tim and Tina too!)

One place we would return to:

N: Cambodia
P: Laem Sing, Thailand

(Cambodia)

(Laem Sing, Thailand)

We loved our experience cycling through the four countries. Despite their proximity to each other, every country was unique and we feel very lucky to have had the time to really absorb those differences.

One of our concerns before setting out was the dangers we might face, specifically the risk of encountering people with bad intentions. What if the bikes were stolen or if we were mislead somehow? It turned out to be the complete opposite. We met so many kind people who went out of their way to help us and make us feel welcome.

(Kids in Dong Le)

(A lovely Vietnamese lady who wanted to feed us more, more and then some more)

Another learning for us was to make up our own minds. We encountered a few fellow travelers and cycle-tourists along the way, many of whom gave us useful advice or information which helped us on the trip. We did occasionally get some negative feedback about certain places we were heading for which often left us feeling a bit apprehensive. But we soon realised that each person's experience is unique - circumstances are never exactly the same and your own perspective will largely dictate how you feel about a situation. So we learned not to be deterred but to go ahead with an open mind.

Traveling by bike was a real revelation too. Being out in the elements and traveling at a gentle pace really allowed us to absorb the sights, sounds and smells of the areas we were passing through. Most importantly, it gave us time to interact with the people we were passing by - to give them a wave and a smile and to greet them in their native language - "Sawa-dee-kah", "Sa-bai-dee", "Sin-jow" or "Seus-day"!

Naturally there were some difficult moments on the trip but all of those pale in comparison to the overall experience of fun and the great adventure that we had.

And yes, we are already scheming our next cycling trip...

days 130 and 131 - Bangkok

Tuesday, 4 March 2014

Our final two days of the trip have been spent getting organised for the journey back to Europe. The main priority was to get the bikes packed up which turned out to be very straightforward thanks to another great recommendation from Tim and Tina. We took our bikes to Velo Thailand, just around the corner from our hotel, where they were cleaned and boxed up within a matter of hours. The store had lots of great parts and accessories for the bikes that we were tempted by and we were reminded that cycling can be an expensive hobby!

(Collecting the bikes from Velo Thailand)

(Nicky's box ready to go)

In the evening, we returned to a restaurant for dinner where we had had a lovely meal with Annegret and Norbert, Paul’s parents, when we were all together in Bangkok back in October, at the very start of our trip. It was special to be there again and to take in the beautiful riverside views. 

(Kites flying near the Grand Palace)

(Temple of the Dawn, the view from the rooftop bar)



Today we did a lot of walking, hunting for a few last minute purchases and some edible goodies for the flight. We wandered through a bustling food and flower market, through Chinatown and a couple of Bangkok’s big shopping malls. We hopped in a taxi to return to the hotel and had a bit of a chat with the driver about the protests that have been happening in the city for the past five months. As we drove through the streets, he pointed out the barricades and army check points. He also told us a bit about himself. He has seven children, all boys, two of whom are twins and three of whom are triplets!! He did a pretty funny reenactment of the delivery of the triplets. He described his wife as superwoman and we didn't doubt him.   

(It seems the paddock to plate movement is taking off in Bangkok too)

(Fresh food market)

(Flower market bargains)

(Unusually orderly behaviour at the train station)

(Barricades)

(Army station)

We could not leave Thailand without one last Thai massage. It seems like there is a massage business on every corner in the city which can feel a little overwhelming when it comes to choosing one. We found a place near to the bike store that was run by some friendly people and we both enjoyed the treatment we received. We certainly felt all the sore points that we had picked up on the road. 

This evening we had our final dinner at a nearby restaurant called the Joy Luck Club. The lady who was running the restaurant cooked up a delicious dinner, as well as our breakfast for the morning and two meals for the plane so we can bring a little taste of Thailand with us, at least for some of the way. We fly out tomorrow morning, heading for new beginnings in Europe. We will leave Bangkok hoping for joy and luck in what lies ahead.  

(Joy Luck Club)

day 129 - Chon Buri to Bangkok

Sunday 2 March

Today we arrived in Bangkok, bringing us back to the point where this whole journey began. It has been a brilliant trip and we're delighted to have made it safely back with so many wonderful memories in tow. It was a strange feeling to get off the bikes knowing that the next time we will ride them will be somewhere in Europe, on some small commute. But we are already conjuring up ideas for our next cycling adventure - this definitely won't be the last.

(A quick breakfast before setting off from Chon Buri)

(A lot of highway)


While the journey into Bangkok along the freeway wasn't too exciting, we did have a great moment on highway 3. We were travelling along when a ute slowed down beside us and rolled down his window to hold out a bottle of water, first to Paul and then to Nicky. The driver smiled as he handed them over before taking off again. It was a lovely moment to have happen to us on our last day of the ride. As we've mentioned, the kindness of strangers that we've experienced has been a really special part of the trip. 

(Highway 3)

(Arriving into the city)

Once we arrived into the city, we came across a handful of roadblocks which meant we had to take a few detours in order to get to our hotel. We assumed the roadblocks were related to the ongoing protests in the city. We also noticed a large army and police presence as we cycled through but everything seemed calm, or as calm as a city like Bangkok can be.

(Just a nice little cafe that we stopped at for a break after getting muddled by another roadblock)

(Getting closer to our hotel)

(And finally... we've arrived!)

We found our hotel and once we were settled, we headed out for a little celebratory meal. After 5485km, there's a lot to reminisce on over the coming days. In between all the nostalgia, we will also be packing up and readying ourselves to fly out to London on Wednesday, where our next adventure will begin.

day 128 - Wang Chan to Chon Buri

Saturday, 1 March 2014

Maybe it was the heat or the hills we encountered on the road yesterday but we both slept like logs last night and woke before 6am, ready to hit the road. After one last cuddle with the friendly cat, we were off on our way to Chon Buri.

(Hairy cat cuddles)

As predicted, the journey along the highway was not very pleasant, with heavy traffic and many large trucks speeding in the direction of Bangkok. At least we had a good hard shoulder for most of the way and the undulating road gave us a good workout. 

(Morning mist along highway 3)


(Portraits of the King and Queen are positioned outside many businesses)

(A grand temple entrance)

We arrived into Chon Buri shortly after noon and cycled around for a little while before we found some accommodation. Life truly is a see-saw with ups and downs, and while we had a wonderful place to stay last night, we checked in to tonight's accommodation while reminding "it is just for one night". Not the nicest spot we've stayed but it could be worse. Maybe we have been too spoilt this past week. We spent the afternoon wandering through the town and found a nice cafe where we could relax for a while. 

(Coffee tuk tuk)


(Hard work pedalling people around in the heat. He was dead to the world when we passed by)

As we were walking through the town after dinner, we stopped to ask a woman for directions. Something got lost in translation and the woman thought we were looking for the local temple. Given it was early evening, we can only assume she thought we were looking for the temple because we were in need of somewhere to stay for the night. She offered for us to stay at her home, saying it would be free and we would be very welcome. The kindness of strangers! Definitely a recurring theme on our journey. We thanked her, explaining we were staying nearby but no doubt it would have been an interesting evening. 

Tomorrow we ride to Bangkok, for our final day on the bikes. When we left Bangkok back in October last year, it was by train to Ayutthaya so it will be good to finish the trip cycling into the city. 

day 127 - Laem Singh to Wang Chan

Friday, 28 February 2014

We set off from Laem Singh this morning, waved off by one of the friendly women who run the resort. We really enjoyed our stay in Laem Singh and are glad we were able to experience one of Thailand's many lovely beaches and the hospitality at Somboon Resort.

We followed the coastal road for the first 30km of the ride before joining the highway which we then travelled for the remaining 60km to Wang Chan.

(A bit of colour on an otherwise pretty grey highway)

(Highway 3)

When we plan to stay overnight in a small town, we like to see if we can find accommodation on Google Maps or through an online booking website such as Agoda, to ensure we don't turn up and find there is nowhere to stay. In the more remote parts of Laos or Cambodia, we would often rely on the travel diaries of other cyclists to find out whether or not accommodation was on offer. In the case of Wang Chan, we came across Madame Resort on Agoda. While the name may sound a little suspect, it turned out to be a delight. It is a pretty little resort, with 10 beautifully appointed bungalows, friendly staff and a particularly friendly cat! If we had an extra day to spare, we would have happily spent another night at Madame Resort.

(Madame Resort bungalows)

(Madame Resort)


(The friendly cat)

Tomorrow, we ride to Chon Buri, a large industrial town 80km south of Bangkok. It will be our second last ride of the trip so while we will be on highway for the whole journey which may not be too pleasant, we will make the most of it as it'll be one of our last long rides for a while.